Olfactive Dreams

Mandalay Signature (Burma, 2017) Khenata House A Short Review Mandalay Signature was distilled in 2017 using wild Burmese agarwood chips. It begins with a subtle citric note, then quickly moves toward fruity and tart territories. The citrus note is a ‘weird’ one as it somehow does not smell like fresh citrus – yet very pleasant and concentrated. I can also smell something deeply resinous in the background. The tart and fruity facets somehow remind me of sweet tamarind from Thailand (– yummy, you definitely should taste this). There is medicinal bitterness just adjacent to the tartness and a very faint amount of menthol. There is a barnyard smell too, but not unpleasant - especially if you like good oils from Assam belt (Bangladesh & India), you’ll like this one’s. After 5-10 minutes, s.t. temperature and humidity, the fruity ‘accord’ becomes very similar to a slightly sweet and spicy mango bar. Just imagine you unwrapped a packet and taking a big sniff of it! Hay, ...

Rosey Oud Location: East Pahang State, Malaysia House: La Maison Khenata Profile : chocolatey, tobaccoish, earthy, perfumey/etheral, social friendly Rose de Malaisie (2017) What a beautiful fragrance on its own! It begins with an airy hint of rose otto that has a tinge of peppery green top note. I also get tobacco and chocolate smell. However, they are accompanied by a powdery note that is similar to mimosa ( Dealbata variant) and violet leaf. I then get a beautiful earthy smell with an accompanying hay note – more specifically Austrian hay type. If I inhale a bit longer, I also get a dry/powdery vibe, similar to that of (Persian) saffron. I also get a hint of burning wood type smell – a prelude to the incense that is about to drop. I get about 9 plus hours incense note from this stunner. To me this and Malay Encense (ME) are of the best value Malaysian oils in terms of full-bodied incensiness that one expects from the oils of that region. For a young oil t...

A Monolith of Mentholic and Spicy Incense Region: Sabah, Malaysia Wood used: Wild  Aquilaria microcarpa  (mostly) and some wild  Aquilaria malaccensis  shavings House:   Al Hashimi Ibn Zamrak (2017) in Total Recovery Vial I  will try to write my impression a bit differently for this oil as I have lot to say about it. I apologise if some of it sounds repetitive as I’m yet to acquire the art of non-academic writting. At the top I get a fleeting apple note – not sure about the variety though. Almost instantaneously (I used that word intentionally), Ibn Zamkrak (IZ) greets me with a very strong mentholic note with all sorts of wonder to follow. I t then reveals its earthy and hay notes.  The hay is pleasant and sweet – a cross between recently dried hays from Bangladesh and a bit of honey/toffee like sweetness of Spanish hay absolute. The earthy note is not very powerful now. But I can sense its intensity getting stronger. ...

Pleasant Filaria House:  HabzOud Region: Indonesia Wood used: Wild shavings from  Aquilaria filaria This yellow, rather ordinary looking 3 years old oil, distilled from wild Aquilaria filaria is my first experience with Merauke oils. What a great introduction! It starts off with an intensely minty/mentholic smell, coupled with a note of royal vetiver (hydro distilled essential oil from north Indian vetiver, aka, ruh khas). I know how non-IFRA compliant oakmoss absolute smells like. But I have no idea how oak-moss smells like. However, this oil has a powerful foresty green, and camphorous/incensy smell at the top that is quite similar to the non-IFRA oakmoss absolute I have. Both are outstanding. The hay note is just sumptuous - similar to a freshly dried hays – more specifically hays from Bangladesh – never too strong. There is also a hint of herbaceous notes that settle down quite quickly – more specifically something akin to middle and end not...