Mandalay Signature (Burma, 2017) Oud Oil Review

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Mandalay Signature (Burma, 2017)
A Short Review

Mandalay Signature was distilled in 2017 using wild Burmese agarwood chips. It begins with a subtle citric note, then quickly moves toward fruity and tart territories. The citrus note is a ‘weird’ one as it somehow does not smell like fresh citrus – yet very pleasant and concentrated. I can also smell something deeply resinous in the background. The tart and fruity facets somehow remind me of sweet tamarind from Thailand (– yummy, you definitely should taste this). There is medicinal bitterness just adjacent to the tartness and a very faint amount of menthol. There is a barnyard smell too, but not unpleasant - especially if you like good oils from Assam belt (Bangladesh & India), you’ll like this one’s.

After 5-10 minutes, s.t. temperature and humidity, the fruity ‘accord’ becomes very similar to a slightly sweet and spicy mango bar. Just imagine you unwrapped a packet and taking a big sniff of it! Hay, which was quiet faint at the start, becomes stronger every minute, which also has a touch of geosmine.

The bitterness and the dryness gradually intensifies. The former has a lot of similarities with Viet Zephyr, a fantastic wild Vietnamese oil from Imperial Oud (UK). Unlike oils from neighbouring countries (Malaysia, and Indonesia), a somewhat greenish mentholic/ camphorous smell appears late into this olfaction party. The heart of this oil is an ebullient undulation between light camphour/menthol, and medicinal bitter incense.

As the bitterness, hay, and camphorous facets subside, the leather comes alive. I should qualify this leather note – I noticed oils that has some hay and barnyard smells, tend to get leathery on me – i.e., temperature, leather, & barnyard notes have a positive correlation on my skin. I tested this hypothesis by wearing various oud oils in a wide temperatures range (10°-35° C). This type oud leather works best for me within 16°-20°C.

In dry down, it is very similar to some wild Assam chips bubbling away - deep, slightly caramel like & resinous (with a bit of vanilla and mushroom in the back). The ‘warm’ leathery facets  is now a distant past (see above)! Essentially, if you want an oil that works like Indian and Cambodian combined, you ought to give this wild Burmese a go.

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