Olfactive Dreams

B leu d e P russe (2024) by Rouhanne Perfumes begins with a zesty orange peel with a lemon note. The reduced intensity of orange peel offers a subtle incense note with some expected astringency. It then reminds me of crushed blood orange leaves, chenpi (aged mandarin orange peel – an oft-used materials in Chinese medicines and incenses). I also get cut-grass, sweet chamomile tea, marigold, hibawood, kunzea, and angelical root type bitter herbaceous smell. The camphoraceous quality also reminds me of the top notes of lavender absolute, and lavandin e/o. There is an almost stylised minty (i.e., cooling) smell and sensation from the start. These are surrounded by a dark blue slightly inky cloud (that later morphs into a fog). However, these are less noticeable on drier skin. After 2-3 mins, the smell reminds me of a dark green and blue oud oils (due to azulene usually found in some A. malaccensis that later becomes green to yellowish through oxidation) from Indo-Malay regions that l...

Encens Chypre (2014): Tale of A Green Incensed Chypre Sultan Pasha Attars Encens Chypre (2017) Encens Chypre (EC) is a full blown classic chypre, full of animalics, intoxicating florals, unashamedly sensual, spicy and fruity and then some! This is my most favourite chypre. Let me explain why! From the applicator, I get peach, citrus, lots of civet, jasmine and oakmoss. I later detect beeswax/honey like sweet facets that also contribute to its deep incensiness. Sultan made EC as an ode to vintage Mitsuoko extrait - and oakmoss, the most iconic ingredient for chypres. Overall, Mitsuoko extraits (let alone lower concentrates) from 1970s and onwards pale into comparison to this. I have not smelt any earlier version, so cannot compare it to those. I applied only 2 pin-head amounts on skin. It begins with a lot of citruses (bergamot and lime) with an animalic fruity vibe just behind it, supported by orange blossom – overall, making it sharp, bitter, medicinal, and a...