Olfactive Dreams

Tabac Grande (2017): A Tobacco Magnum Opus Sultan Pasha Attars Tabac Grande (TG) is probably the best tobacco fragrance I have tried so far within the cuir sub-category. When I smelt it early last year (2018) for the first time, I was quite perplexed as I had no idea what magical elixir I am smelling! Over the last 14-15 months, after smelling a few individual oils (say about 110, without ouds), I can finally detect some - barely. I used the term barely intentionally because I consider myself a novice and thus without Sultan’s notes list, it would have been a bigger challenge to detect some of them notwithstanding the fact that some of the oils are blended so well that it is almost impossible for me to detect them individually. Upon smelling it now, it immediately reminds me of a very old and austere gentlemen’s club I visited last year (2018), where they have some stunning leather sofas that have been used for generations. If I understand correctly, thick and top quality l...

Rosey Oud Location: East Pahang State, Malaysia House: La Maison Khenata Profile : chocolatey, tobaccoish, earthy, perfumey/etheral, social friendly Rose de Malaisie (2017) What a beautiful fragrance on its own! It begins with an airy hint of rose otto that has a tinge of peppery green top note. I also get tobacco and chocolate smell. However, they are accompanied by a powdery note that is similar to mimosa ( Dealbata variant) and violet leaf. I then get a beautiful earthy smell with an accompanying hay note – more specifically Austrian hay type. If I inhale a bit longer, I also get a dry/powdery vibe, similar to that of (Persian) saffron. I also get a hint of burning wood type smell – a prelude to the incense that is about to drop. I get about 9 plus hours incense note from this stunner. To me this and Malay Encense (ME) are of the best value Malaysian oils in terms of full-bodied incensiness that one expects from the oils of that region. For a young oil t...

A Monolith of Mentholic and Spicy Incense Region: Sabah, Malaysia Wood used: Wild  Aquilaria microcarpa  (mostly) and some wild  Aquilaria malaccensis  shavings House:   Al Hashimi Ibn Zamrak (2017) in Total Recovery Vial I  will try to write my impression a bit differently for this oil as I have lot to say about it. I apologise if some of it sounds repetitive as I’m yet to acquire the art of non-academic writting. At the top I get a fleeting apple note – not sure about the variety though. Almost instantaneously (I used that word intentionally), Ibn Zamkrak (IZ) greets me with a very strong mentholic note with all sorts of wonder to follow. I t then reveals its earthy and hay notes.  The hay is pleasant and sweet – a cross between recently dried hays from Bangladesh and a bit of honey/toffee like sweetness of Spanish hay absolute. The earthy note is not very powerful now. But I can sense its intensity getting stronger. ...

Pleasant Filaria House:  HabzOud Region: Indonesia Wood used: Wild shavings from  Aquilaria filaria This yellow, rather ordinary looking 3 years old oil, distilled from wild Aquilaria filaria is my first experience with Merauke oils. What a great introduction! It starts off with an intensely minty/mentholic smell, coupled with a note of royal vetiver (hydro distilled essential oil from north Indian vetiver, aka, ruh khas). I know how non-IFRA compliant oakmoss absolute smells like. But I have no idea how oak-moss smells like. However, this oil has a powerful foresty green, and camphorous/incensy smell at the top that is quite similar to the non-IFRA oakmoss absolute I have. Both are outstanding. The hay note is just sumptuous - similar to a freshly dried hays – more specifically hays from Bangladesh – never too strong. There is also a hint of herbaceous notes that settle down quite quickly – more specifically something akin to middle and end not...

Wild Malaccan Oud Chips (Al Hashimi, 2017) These  Aquilaria malaccensis  chips smell divine even at room temperature - spicy, hint of orange peel, earthy, slightly petrichorish (if there is such word), and most importantly woody (hinting towards a wonderful incense note). I have yet put these fragrant nuggets on to the burner as I prefer colder weather to 'optimise' my enjoyment. There is a  labdanum type sweetness  in it too. Update: I just burned a tiny (rice grain) amount at low temperature (around 9-10 volts range) as I simply could not resist anymore! The initial  hay ,  woody  and  earthy  notes' combination, followed by the  incensy menthol  is superb. I wish there was an attar with that aroma  only . It then starts spilling out its spice notes, more specifically  cinnamon  and  cardamom  and a bit of  orange peel  in the distance. The orange peel thingy is quite distant. I wa...