Tabac Grande (2017) Sultan Pasha Attars

Tabac Grande (2017): A Tobacco Magnum Opus

Sultan Pasha Attars

Tabac Grande (TG) is probably the best tobacco fragrance I have tried so far within the cuir sub-category. When I smelt it early last year (2018) for the first time, I was quite perplexed as I had no idea what magical elixir I am smelling! Over the last 14-15 months, after smelling a few individual oils (say about 110, without ouds), I can finally detect some - barely. I used the term barely intentionally because I consider myself a novice and thus without Sultan’s notes list, it would have been a bigger challenge to detect some of them notwithstanding the fact that some of the oils are blended so well that it is almost impossible for me to detect them individually. Upon smelling it now, it immediately reminds me of a very old and austere gentlemen’s club I visited last year (2018), where they have some stunning leather sofas that have been used for generations. If I understand correctly, thick and top quality leather sofas, if cared carefully, take in a lot of aroma from their environment.

My olfactive works in a weird way (probably some others’ too). I sometimes smell some heart and base notes before smelling some (not all) top ones. This is particularly true when there are lots of base materials. TG, just like all other SPAs, is like that.

FROM BOTTLE/STICK

I immediately get dried, and quite exquisite smelling tobacco leaf, hawthorn’s animalic twang, a dollop of trickly and resinous sweetness from ‘smoky’ coffee and cocoa and probably from the combination of beeswax, Spanish hay, vanilla, tonka and immortelle. I also get something powdery and yet ambery if I inhale a bit longer – something along the line of amber sweetie and saffron.

ON SKIN

I used only a very small amount – 3 dots, each about 2mm wide amount! That is enough for me. Anything more than that on my skin, the notes in TG get wonky and it becomes even more difficult to decipher.

On skin I immediately detect a dry, sweet and well-cured tobacco leaf (abs.), coupled with hawthorn flowers. By the way, I only smelt hawthorn flower fresh (not the oil) without recognising the tree. But after sniffing TG, I realised that the somewhat sweet and animalic twang is coming from hawthorn. There is a saffron like dryness that rounds and compliments the dry and leather facets of tobacco leaf. The other facets of sweetness (that I detect) are from cognac e/o, Spanish hay, beeswax (trickly sweetness), tonka (vanilla /coumarin like sweetness), and a glorious apricotty osmanthus – appearing at different stages throughout its progression. I also detect a lilac like odour, but only for short time, followed by something spicy, not sure what it is. There is fruity sweetness as well – but this particular sweetness is emanating from fermentation – possibly from cognac and/or, rum (rum succan absolute or CO2).

I also detect lots of smoky facets, supported by some resinous features. The resinous profile sits amongst leather, smokes and sweetness – almost like playing the role of violin in a Mendelssohn’s concerto. I get smoky coffee and probably amplified by cade, and Himalyaan cedar, hay (not sure, but it could be Spanish variant), and an indolic but very pleasant jasmine. This jasmine somehow reminds me of Papillion’s Anubis – especially when I take a first whiff. On my skin, the rose imparts its sweetness very early on that is very similar to an aged rose absolute – possibly Turkish or Bulgarian (Rosa damascena). I wish it had more roses! I’m a sucker for rose. So can you blame me?!

The Bengali oud used here is probably sweeter, caramel like, chocolaty and resinous - i.e., the last stage of heating up Indian oud chips before they start giving off burning smell. Also, it is less leathery and barnyardish and there is nothing scatological. I am assuming (1) the oud in TG is less leathery because that leather in Bengali oud can be very potent. It can overwhelm anything in its path if the oud is not good quality and more importantly, if not used carefully. All this sweetness, and yet, it is never too sweet. I should also say I am not a fan of overtly sweet fragrances.

The leathery facets are nicely complimented by castoreum - i.e., smoky and chocolaty qualities. Civet lifts up all the florals quite nicely, highlighting each and complimenting each other effortlessly. The ambergris makes the whole thing more diffusive, allowing the wearer to enjoy subtle and less subtle facets with higher/more pronounced intensities. There are animalic facets throughout its top and heart, but always pleasant, and skilfully tempered.

Tabac Grande becomes a skin scent around 9-10 hours. Then lasts another 2-3 hours at least. Sometimes, even longer if my skin is not very dry. It is an elegant leathery and resinous wonder easily lasting about 12 hours on my skin. The best part of TG is I detect different things at similar time period with each wearing. To me this is a hallmark of Sultan Pasha - craftsmanship and artistry of the highest order. Bravo!