SOMA (2019) 'NOT Perfumes'

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SOMA (2019): An Ode to Gardenia

NOT Perfumes

Mini Review

Johanna Venables initiates SOMA with bitter green galbanum, citrus-like green stems with a big but pleasant dose of sensual gardenia. The gardenia is quite realistic in it - almost as if I am sniffing a freshly bloomed one - one which has not bloomed fully yet, so the green facets of gardenia flower is more prominent than usual. I am thinking of the first day of bloom - when it blooms partially and the weather is not that warm and humid, which tend to accentuate the heady and sensual facets of this flower. So effectively a gardenia with those early green facets and the one that has not released all its creamy and heady facets.
Gardenia from Our Rooftop Garden (2018)
I also liked how Johanna kept the jasmine (possibly grandiflorum) and tuberose just below gardenia and green vegetal combo smell – used largely to lift the gardenia up and not to overwhelm it with their own unique aroma profiles. But they are clearly detectable when I inhale for a bit longer or when it is a bit more humid and warmer. It is almost like a layer that one has to lift a little up to detect it.
So far I have not detected any fatty or musty facets, which tend to be a ‘problem’ in most florals that have jasmines in it in the last stage. All I smell is vegetal, somewhat aromatic, and vegetal green, and oakmossy florals. Is there is narcissus and rose? I occasionally get something sweet and rosey and a hint of honey.

 The bitterness have some similarities with galbanum, amalaki (Phyllanthus emblica), horboroi, [aka Malay gooseberry] (Phyllanthus acidus) and crushed young lemon branches. There is also dryness adjacent to the bitterness of this composition. But there are some beautiful oddness to it. Not sure, but after I looked at the noteslist that Johanna posted on social medias, I saw geosmine being mentioned. Sometimes when the rain pours after a long summer, in some areas, it can impart a smell that is dusty, green and dry with a gentle sweetness. Could this (or it’s lab counterpart) be also responsible for it?
SOMA (2019) Sample
As the green bitterness subsides, the green accord gives of an astringent smell that is similar to that of clary sage, tagetes, black/green tea. I LOVE it. Please bring back SOMA as soon as possible, Johanna. And when you do I will a buy bottle of it. I do not care about packaging. On that topic, I love the fact that you don’t do fancy packaging at all.

 If you want to enjoy gardenia flower in all its glory (with measured indoles) with citrusy, tiny bit medicinal, slightly foresty, vegetal, bitter, dry and astringent green facets from start till the end for a long time (10+ hours on my very dry skin), you then ought to give this a try. There are very few good perfumes that highlight gardenia so gloriously. SOMA is gorgeous.

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