Olfactive Dreams

Brief Review 29 April, 2019 It is  28°C . Celsius (but outside it feels like 35). So I’m going through some ‘softies’. Borneo Prism begins like a mid-phase of oakmoss absolute - very very green - but with more intensity. I also get camphor, galbanum like greenness, a wisping caress of of pleasant hay. Those who are used to Hindi oud - or more specifically wore some Hindi with an intense barnyard strong just before BP will probably not get the soft hay. It happened in my case. Initially there is no sweetness what so ever. Its medicinal sharpness somehow reminds me of smelling salt! Do not get nervous with its intense start. After 5 minutes, it softens and becomes a little sweet and resinous/balsamic – some people may use the term ambery (but I’ll stick to formers). At this stage the balsamic facet has some similarities with benzoin (but only), and Himalyan cedar. The sweetness I get now is somewhat a combination of beeswax absolute and benzoin, with an earthy note play...

Mandalay Signature (Burma, 2017) Khenata House A Short Review Mandalay Signature was distilled in 2017 using wild Burmese agarwood chips. It begins with a subtle citric note, then quickly moves toward fruity and tart territories. The citrus note is a ‘weird’ one as it somehow does not smell like fresh citrus – yet very pleasant and concentrated. I can also smell something deeply resinous in the background. The tart and fruity facets somehow remind me of sweet tamarind from Thailand (– yummy, you definitely should taste this). There is medicinal bitterness just adjacent to the tartness and a very faint amount of menthol. There is a barnyard smell too, but not unpleasant - especially if you like good oils from Assam belt (Bangladesh & India), you’ll like this one’s. After 5-10 minutes, s.t. temperature and humidity, the fruity ‘accord’ becomes very similar to a slightly sweet and spicy mango bar. Just imagine you unwrapped a packet and taking a big sniff of it! Hay, ...

Encens Chypre (2014): Tale of A Green Incensed Chypre Sultan Pasha Attars Encens Chypre (2017) Encens Chypre (EC) is a full blown classic chypre, full of animalics, intoxicating florals, unashamedly sensual, spicy and fruity and then some! This is my most favourite chypre. Let me explain why! From the applicator, I get peach, citrus, lots of civet, jasmine and oakmoss. I later detect beeswax/honey like sweet facets that also contribute to its deep incensiness. Sultan made EC as an ode to vintage Mitsuoko extrait - and oakmoss, the most iconic ingredient for chypres. Overall, Mitsuoko extraits (let alone lower concentrates) from 1970s and onwards pale into comparison to this. I have not smelt any earlier version, so cannot compare it to those. I applied only 2 pin-head amounts on skin. It begins with a lot of citruses (bergamot and lime) with an animalic fruity vibe just behind it, supported by orange blossom – overall, making it sharp, bitter, medicinal, and a...